Ms Marloes ten Bhömer

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Marloes ten Bhömer
About
Research
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About

I am a Senior Research Fellow in Design and and chair of the Research Through Design group at 重口味SM. 

My practice-based research focuses on women's footwear from technical, material and cultural perspectives. My current research considers the role design and media play in the social and cultural formation of the ‘high-heeled woman', in turn challenging the hardened typologies that uphold repressive stereotypes with regard to women's social and physical mobility.

I am interested in expanding and diversifying the theoretical and contextual frameworks of fashion through both my research practice and teaching. From 2012 until 2015 I was Professor of Fashion at the Universiät der Künste in Berlin where I initiated a multi-disciplinary approach, seeking to challenge pre-conceived and limiting parameters in Fashion education. I am also a member of OUTSKIRTS, a collective of fashion practitioners and academics who explore and develop Practice Based Fashion Research to empower alternative modes of being and doing fashion subsequently redefining and repositioning the discipline and nurturing discursive fashion. 

Pursuing my interests via my research practice, exhibitions, conference presentations and pedagogy, I lecture and run workshops regularly at a number of international institutions.

Academic responsibilities

Senior Research Fellow

Qualifications

  • MA Design Products, Royal College of Art London, 2003
  • BA Hons 3D design, Higher School of Arts Arnhem, ArtEZ, 2001

Research

With my work I aim to consistently challenge generic typologies of women's shoes through experiments with non-traditional technologies and material techniques. By reinventing the design methodology and the process by which footwear is made, the resulting shoes serve as unique examples of new aesthetic and structural possibilities, while also serving to criticise the conventional status of women's shoes as cultural objects.

My research-based practice is focused on the social and cultural construct of the ‘high-heeled woman', and the intersections between craft and technological production, design methodology, the iconology of materials and feminist theory. I aim to dissect the role design and media play in the social and cultural formation of the high-heeled woman, in turn challenging the hardened typologies that uphold repressive stereotypes with regard to women's social and physical mobility. My objective is to understand and propose alternatives to the status quo.

The research informs critical works produced in a variety of mediums ranging from film, objects, installations and shoe-artifacts. It is disseminated in a variety of contexts through international exhibitions, conferences, artist talks and in both academic and non-academic publications. Notable exhibitions were held at the Museum of Art and Design New York, Modemuseum in Hasselt and the Victoria and Albert Museum. My work was nominated for the Designs of the Year, Design Museum London (2009) and was selected for the Jerwood Contemporary Makers Prize and Exhibition (2010) and won the Best Idea award at Copenhagen Fashion Film Festival 2019. My work is part of the permanent collection of the Fashion Institute of Technology New York. From 2011-2013 I was a Stanley Picker Fellow, Kingston Universityand in 2008 a Designer in Residence at D-Lab, Kyoto Institute of Technology. I welcome proposals from prospective PhD and MA by Research students working in the areas of discursive fashion, footwear, embodiment, gender, craft and technology.

Qualifications and expertise

  • Chair of the Research Through Design Group, 重口味SM

Areas of specialism

  • Footwear and fashion typologies
  • Fashion and embodiment; gender, design, movement and mobility
  • High heeled footwear in relation to gender representations in various media
  • Critical fashion practice
  • Craft, technological manufacturing and design methodology, from practical and cultural perspectives.

Research student supervision

Publications

Jump to: Artefact/Device | Book Section | Conference or Workshop Item | Exhibition | Moving Image/Broadcast
Number of items: 32.

Artefact/Device

[Artist] (2022) (Shoe). Leather and plastic.

[Designer] (2015) (shoe).

[Designer] (2010) (Shoe).

[Designer] (2009) (Grouping of artefacts).

Book Section

(2021) In: Galhano, Joana, (ed.) O Ato de Caminhar = The act of walking : Marloes ten Bh枚mer. S. Jo茫o da Madeira : C芒mara Municipal de S. Jo茫o da Madeira. pp. 8-11. ISBN 9789729148651

, Hoette, Ruby, Pollmann, Alexa, Poslethwaite, Susan and Thiel, Kat (2017) In: Thornquist, Clemens and Bigolin, Ricarda, (eds.) Everything and everybody as material : beyond fashion design methods. Boras, Sweden : The School of Fashion and Textiles, RMIT University and The Swedish School of Textiles, University of Boras. pp. 226-231. ISBN 9789188269799

(2017) In: Thornquist, Clemens and Bigolin, Ricarda, (eds.) Everything and everybody as material : beyond fashion design methods. Boras, Sweden : The School of Fashion and Textiles, RMIT University and The Swedish School of Textiles, University of Boras. pp. 220-225. ISBN 9789188269799

Conference or Workshop Item

[Researcher] (2022) In: Women walking: histories, movement and mobilities; 24-26 Mar-2022, Online.

(2022) In: Masterclass : the act of walking [o ato de caminhar]; 09 Feb 2022, Held online. (Unpublished)

, Hoette, Ruby, Thiel, Kat and Pollmann, Alexa (2021) In: The Digital Multilogue on Fashion and Education : A Conference on Learning and Teaching Fashion in Theory and Practice; 01 - 02 Oct 2021, Held online. (Unpublished)

[Co-creator], Hoette, Ruby [Co-creator], Pollman, Alexa [Co-creator] and Thiel, Kat [Co-creator] (2020) In: Digital Multilogue on Fashion Education; 25 Sep 2020, Held online. (Unpublished)

(2020) In: By the Dark of the Moon (part of the Design Film Festival); 22 Sep 2020, online.

(2020) In: Montage : design and film; 08 Jan 2020, Kingston upon Thames, U.K.. (Unpublished)

(2020) In: Invited talk; 08 Jan 2020, London, U.K.. (Unpublished)

(2019) In: Research Through Design 2019, Methods and Critique; 19-22 Mar 2019, Delft, Netherlands.

(2018) In: Impulse, Mode und Lehre; 26 Oct 2018, Halle, Germany. (Unpublished)

(2018) In: KYOTO Design Lab : Public Lecture; 20 Apr 2018, Kyoto, Japan. (Unpublished)

(2017) In: Everything and everybody as material : beyond fashion design methods; 07 - 09 Jun 2017, Boras, Sweden.

(2016) In: Undesign symposium; 02 Jun 2016, Vienna, Austria.

van Heeren, Clive [Contributor], [Contributor] and Fleming, Kathryn [Contributor] (2016) In: Ravensbourne Late : Wearable futures; 20 Apr 2016, London, U.K.. (Unpublished)

(2014) In: Global Fashion 2014 : Rethinking & Reworking Global Fashion; 20 -21 Nov 2014, Ghent, Belgium. (Unpublished)

(2014) In: Design Culture Salon 11 : How do Fashion Cycles and Design Culture Interact?; 14 Nov 2014, London, U.K.. (Unpublished)

(2013) In: Design Symposium in memory of Alex Ward; 11 Nov 2013, Jerusalem. (Unpublished)

Exhibition

(2021) .

[Artist] (2017) .

[Designer] and Toran, Noam [Artist] (2017) Studio ZZM. .

[Curator] (2016) The Activated Object : Product Design Finals. .

[Designer] (2016) .

Moving Image/Broadcast

[Designer] (2018) (design film).

[Designer] (2014) (design film).

[Designer] (2013) (design research film).

[Designer] (2012) (design research film).

This list was generated on Sat May 18 07:03:00 2024 BST.

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